Paddle Length

This post is a follow up to How to Choose a Paddle.  Please read that post as well.
I found this handy chart on paddle length and it looks pretty good.  You still have to figure out whether you are a high angle or low angle paddler.  It came out of a brochure from AT Paddles, so please visit their website at www.atpaddles.com for more information.

Paddling Gloves

Some people love them, other people hate them.  I’ve tried several of them.  The basic idea of paddling gloves is twofold.  First, there are gloves that are designed to cushion your hands and prevent blisters.  Then there are gloves that are designed to keep your hands warm.  My best advice is to try some for yourself, and then you decide.  Here is what I have learned…

Half-finger kayaking gloves

Half-finger gloves.  These are used to prevent blisters and help you hold on to your paddle.  They work pretty well, and some people swear by them.  I don’t use them much anymore because once they get wet, they stay wet.  Your hands get all pruned up.

Full-finger kayak gloves

Full gloves.  Same as half-finger gloves, but a little warmer.

Neoprene kayak gloves

Neoprene gloves.  These are all about keeping your hands warm.  They do a pretty good job at it too.  They are a bit awkward, and mine started leaking at the seams pretty quickly.  I also found that they did not keep my hands warm enough under 40 degrees.

Neoprene kayak mitts

Neoprene mitts.  My latest attempt at keeping my hands (which are always cold) warmer in cold weather.  I find these to be much warmer than the gloves.  The obvious downside is a total lack of dexterity.  You have to take them off to complete any tasks that require fingers.  Despite the inconvenience, these are the only thing I’ve found that is truly warm.

An alternative to gloves is to use Yak Grips, which is a neoprene sleeve that goes over your paddle.  I’ll post more on those later.

See you on the water, 

Don Urmston

Mrurmston@gmail.com

Dry bags, dry bags!

If you are going to kayak for any length of time, you will need some dry bags.  Dry bags are just what the name implies- bags that keep things dry.  They come in all kinds of sizes are can be used for anything from your cell phone to your lunch to your sleeping bag.

Giant PVC dry bag that I use to carry kayak gear to and from my car

Dry bags are made from two basic types of materials.  First there is the PVC/Plastic type.  These are very tough and can also come in clear so you can see what is in each bag.  The down side to this type is that they are fairly stiff and can be tough to pack.

Nylon dry bag.  I use it for my sleeping bag when kayak camping.

The other material is nylon with a water-proof coating.  This material is much more flexible and can be rolled up smaller to save space.  The down side is that this material is not quite as water-proof.  It does fine for normal use, but if it sits for a long time in water, it will eventually soak through.

The different sizes of dry bags can be used for many items.  Here are some examples.  I’ll refer to the picture so you get an idea of how I use some of mine.

Some of the many dry bags that I use for kayaking.

5 liter – This is the smallest one in the picture.  I use these for first-aid kits, toiletries on extended trips, food, wallet and cell phone, etc.

10 liter – This is right behind the 5 liter in the photo.  Same uses, but I also use these for extra clothing.

15 liter – Front left in the picture.  Great for clothing and gear.  This one is clear plastic so I can see what’s in it.

20-25 liter – This is the orange one in the picture.  This one is nylon and has a relief valve.  This makes it perfect for clothing.  You can roll it up really tight and it takes less space.  I like to pack my clothing in multiple bags just in case one leaks or gets lost.  (Yes, I’ve lost one on a trip!)

30 liter – This is the blue one on your right.  This can be used for clothing, hiking boots, gear, a sleeping bag, or whatever I need it for.  I also carry an extra one of these just in case.  The one pictured here functioned as my hatch cover for a trip down the Delaware.

50+ liters – The far left gray bag is a nylon bag I use for my tent and sleeping bag.  The giant yellow bag can be used for canoe trips (it has shoulder straps), but I use it mostly for carrying gear to and from the car.

See you on the water,
Don Urmston
Mrurmston@gmail.com

Choosing a PFD

PFD stands for Personal Flotation Device and is just a fancy way of saying Life Vest.  The #1 rule of kayaking is always, always, wear a PFD.  It is not very often that you will find yourself falling out of your kayak, but if you do, it’s usually because something has gone wrong.  A PFD might be the only thing standing between you and drowning. 

There are many good PFDs on the market, so all you have to do is find one that is comfortable for you.  Make sure it is not too long, or it will hit your seat back or cockpit and then will ride up on you.  This can be uncomfortable and dangerous.

The best PFD for you is the one that you will wear every time you go out paddling!

See you on the water,

Don Urmston

Rudders & Skegs

Kayak rudder "deployed"

Kayak rudder in "storage" mode

I get the rudder / skeg questions a lot.  Which is better?  Should I have one?  Should I add one to my kayak?  I used to hate rudders, but I’ve softened my stance over the years.  A rudder is a blade that hangs off the back of the kayak and is controlled via cables that are connected to the foot pegs in the kayak.  Press the right foot peddle and you turn right.  Press the left peddle and you turn left.  The idea of a rudder is not to turn all over the place, but to keep the kayak going in a straight line when you hit winds or currents that push you off course.  For this purpose, rudders work very well.  However, they are mechanical and thus are subject to breakdowns.  The cables can break or jam and the rudder may break as well.  I once had a rudder tear completely off the back of the kayak and plunge into the water.  The cables were still connected, so the rudder dragged under the kayak like an anchor.  The worst part is that the foot pegs disappeared down into the kayak because they were kept in place by the tension on the rudder cables.  I really dislike the “squishy” feel of the foot pegs in a kayak with a rudder.  This has been solved somewhat by the invention of Butterfly foot pegs where the bottom half of the foot pegs are stationary while the top half pushes forward to activate the rudder.  The other thing I dislike about rudders is that they really get in the way when you have to execute an assisted rescue.  It’s just plain scary to be swimming in the water and have a big metal blade hanging over your head as you try to climb back into the kayak.  But, despite the drawbacks, a rudder can be a great help when the weather gets rough.

When not deployed, the skeg is invisible

Skegs work in much the same way, but instead of turning, a skeg just hangs down from underneath the kayak like the fin on a surf board.  Once again, the idea is to keep the kayak going straight when things get rough.  Skegs have potential problems too.  They can jam and break.  Also, skegs sit in a housing that is carved out of the rear hatch, so you lose some storage space in the back hatch of the kayak.  But I like skegs.  They work well, and most are adjustable, so you can get a little help or a lot of help.

Skeg deployed

One word of caution to you rudder and skeg users.  Never rely on either.  They will breakdown at some point, so you should be able to paddle your kayak without one if needed.


See you on the water,
Don Urmston
Mrurmston@gmail.com

Choosing a Kayak Paddle

Choosing a good kayak paddle is just as important as choosing the right kayak.  Think about it, you wouldn’t buy a new car without an engine would you?  Well, guess what?  You and the paddle together ARE THE ENGINE!  This post will only cover European style paddles.  Greenland style paddles will get their own post.  So here’s what you need to know:

Kayak Paddle Parts:

Blade – end of the paddle that goes into the water and makes you go.

Shaft- round part of the paddle that you hold

Kayak Paddle Types:

High Angle Blades – Shorter, wider blades.  You paddle closer to the kayak with the paddle almost straight up and down (it’s at a high angle to the water).  These paddles give more power and you can accelerate faster, but they require more energy with each stroke.  Good for aggressive paddlers and those with lots of upper-body strength.

Low Angle - Top / High Angle Bottom

 

Low Angle Blades – Longer, skinnier blades.  You paddle further out from the kayak at a lower angel to the water.  These paddles don’t push as much water, so they don’t give as much power, but they are easier to push.  So you take a few more strokes, but each stroke is easier.  Good for long trips and people who don’t want to fatigue or aggravate shoulder, back and other injuries.

Kayak Paddle Length:

Put 100 kayak experts in a room and ask each one what length paddle you should use and you will get 100 different answers.  If your paddle is too long it will be unwieldy and cause unnecessary fatigue.  Too short and you will scrape your hands on the side of your kayak.  The ideal length is a combination of your height, the width of your kayak and the style of paddle you choose.  Most mass merchandisers sell paddles that are way too long.   A low angle paddle will have to be longer so it will reach the water.  Paddles come in lengths measured in centimeters.  My rule of thumb is that you really shouldn’t need a paddle more than 220cm unless you are 6ft or taller or you paddle a really wide boat (like a tandem).  I’d be glad to give a more personalized answer- just email me at: Mrurmston@gmail.com.

Kayak Paddle Weight:

Weight is key in a kayak paddle.  The more you paddle, the more fatigued you become.  If you’re just out for an hour bird watching, it won’t matter what you have.  If you go out for a few hours or days, you’ll want the lightest paddle you can afford.

Kayak Paddle Materials:

Metal / Plastic – $24-$200  Heaviest, cheapest

Fiberglass – $200-$300 Middle weight, mid-priced

Carbon Fiber – $300-$500 Lightest & most expensive

Combos – $129-$250 New paddles that combine light materials like a carbon fiber shaft with inexpensive materials like plastic blades.  These give significant weight savings without the cost.

Kayak Basics: How Long do Kayaks Last?

How long will a kayak last?  I get this question every time I go out and talk to people about kayaking.  The answer: It depends how you care for it.  I’ve seen 5 year old kayaks that look like they are done and I recently purchased a 15 year old kayak that looked and paddled like it just came out of the showroom.  Most kayak materials don’t like sunlight (especially plastic) and weather is not much of a friend either.  So kayaks that are stored indoors tend to do much better than ones stored outdoors.  You can tell if a kayak has been exposed to sunlight because it will be faded and in extreme cases you will see tiny little cracks in the plastic.  This means the plastic has become brittle and the kayak is now susceptible to impact damage.  Longevity also depends how you store the kayak.  Kayaks should be stored on their side or hanging in some sort of straps.  Kayaks that are stored on their bottoms tend to get dents or caved in hulls.  To keep your kayak in top condition: Wash it after each use.  Treat plastic and rubber parts (could be the whole kayak) with 303 Protectant (sunscreen for your stuff), store your kayak properly and indoors.


See you on the water,
Don Urmston

Choosing a Kayak: New vs. Used

Should you buy new or used?  It’s up to you.  If you buy new you will have your choice of any kayak that is currently in production, but you may end up spending more money.  If you buy used, you can only choose from the kayaks that are available in the used market.  You can save money buying used, but not necessarily.  I’ve seen some great sales on new kayaks where the price was about the same as buying a used one.
Of course some people just like the idea of a new kayak and that’s fine.  You can get the exact kayak you want and you can get it now.  Also, most dealers give you a discount off of paddles, vests, and other equipment when you buy them with the kayak.  Good outfitters will let you try or rent a kayak before purchasing.  You can also get great deals on rental boats from outfitters when they sell them off after the season is over.


If you are looking for a specific model it may be very difficult to find a used one.  On the other hand, if you are flexible you can save lots of money buying used.  When new models are introduced, the old models tend to drop in value so you can get a 5 or 6 year old kayak for ½ the price of a new one.  Of course, the new one will have all of the latest features.  Where you’ll get stuck is buying a new kayak for full price, unless you intend to keep it for a long time.


Let’s look at an example.  A man buys a new kayak for $1200.  He only uses it a few times so it’s just like new when he decides to sell it one year later.  He figures he’ll ask $1100 and probably sell it for $1000.  The problem is that he paid full price and you could get the same kayak new for $900 on sale.  So the used market is only going to give him $800 for the kayak.  So he loses $400 when he sells it.  The person who bought it on sale will only lose $100.


See you on the water,
Don Urmston
Email me directly with questions: mrurmston@gmail.com

Choosing a Kayak: Single vs. Tandem Kayaks

Typical Tandem Kayak

Tandem kayaks look like such a great deal.  They cost about the same as a single kayak and some models have movable seats so they can be paddled solo.  Indeed, tandem kayaks can be fun, but there is a reason that they are referred to as “divorce” boats.  If you are well matched with your paddling partner in physical size and strength, you both have a very calm, laid-back attitude and you are emotionally stable, then you may have a great time.  If your relationship has any issues, they will come out when you paddle a tandem   kayak.  I know a couple who paddle tandem and work very well together.  I paddled with another couple that argued and shouted and paddled around in circles always turning left.  They sold the tandem the next day and bought two single kayaks.  My wife and I paddled a tandem kayak the first time we went out and it was fun but we didn’t buy one.  We bought two single kayaks. that was 16 years ago and we are still married, so I’d say we made the right choice.  The other problems with tandem kayaks: They are usually very heavy. Some weigh 90 pounds or more.  To fit two seats, they are really wide so it’s more like paddling a bath tub then a kayak.  Some can be paddled solo, but they don’t work very well.  The best use for tandems is for family and friends when you are going out for a short time.  I usually have one in my fleet and it’s great for taking a niece or nephew out for a few hours, but for serious kayaking, I wouldn’t even think about paddling one.  Bottom line- try one out to be sure.
See you on the water,
Don Urmston
Email me directly with questions: mrurmston@gmail.com

Choosing a Kayak: Construction Materials

What your kayak is made of can be just as important as its shape or length.  Each material has advantages and disadvantages.


Roto-molded plastic: These boats are made from plastic pellets that are melted and rolled around in a mold.  Much like the way chocolate is made.
Advantages: Most common and least expensive material.  Plastic is tough and hard to break.
Disadvantages: Heaviest material.  Very pliable which makes it susceptible to dents and deformities.  Must be stored and transported properly to avoid this.  Is damaged by sun exposure.  Plastic kayaks will last much longer if treated with a sun block (303 Protectant) and stored indoors


Thermo-formed plastic: Thermo-formed plastic is made in sheets which are then pressed into shape.  These kayaks are made in two halves, a top and a bottom, then taped together.  This material was pioneered by Eddyline kayaks and they are still the main manufacturer of it.
Advantages: Much lighter and stiffer than roto-molded plastic.
Disadvantages: More expensive than roto-molded.  More fragile.  Not suitable for whitewater and you must be careful around rocks and other sharp objects.


Fiberglass: This material has been around for decades.  It is laid up in a mold (one for the top, one for the bottom) then the two halves are taped together and covered in a gel coat.
Advantages: Very stiff material.  No worry about dents or deformations.  Also the stiffer hull will make the kayak more responsive to the paddler.  Fiberglass is fairly easy to fix if it gets damaged.  Fiberglass kayaks can be lighter than plastic kayaks – they usually are lighter than roto-molded- but is depends on how much fiberglass is used.  Example: Canadian manufacturers tend to make lighter glass boats than British companies.
Disadvantages: More expensive than plastic kayaks.  Can be heavy (my glass kayak weighs 58 pounds).  Must be careful around rocks and sharp objects so you don’t damage the fiberglass.


Carbon Fiber & Kevlar: These materials are not the same but I group them together because their properties tend to be similar.  These are the premium materials.
Advantages: Very light weight.  I’ve seen 17’ sea kayaks that weigh only 35 pounds.  Very stiff like fiberglass.
Disadvantages: Expensive.  Some of these kayaks run $5000.  Also hard to repair if it gets damaged so you need to be careful around rocks etc.


See you on the water,
Don Urmston
Email me directly with questions: mrurmston@gmail.com

Choosing a Kayak: Kayak Types

There a four basic kayak types: Whitewater, Recreational, Sea Kayak, and Sit-on-Top. The basics of kayak design are: the longer and narrower the kayak is, the less stable it is but the faster it goes.  When choosing a kayak, you have to be honest with yourself where you are going to paddle.  Then you can choose the right kayak for the conditions.  Or if you’re like me, you can choose several kayaks, one for each type of paddling.

My Old Whitewater Kayak

Whitewater kayaks are very short (10’ and under) and are made for moving water.  The idea behind a WW kayak is to have it turn on a dime.  There is no need to have the kayak move forward because it is used in moving water so the water takes care of that.  As a result, WW kayaks are not very good for flat water.  Inexperienced paddlers will simply spin around in circles.

My 2nd Recreational Kayak (3rd Dog)

Recreational kayaks are short and wide (8’to14’ long) and are made for flat water.  Flat water includes ponds, small lakes, marsh areas, and small, slow moving rivers and streams.  Recreational kayaks are very stable, but are also very slow.  They can be used in some whitewater (class I, maybe class II) and they can be used for some bigger water, but they are not designed for it.  Paddlers may burn out with a recreational kayak especially if they are trying to keep up with sea kayaks.  Most tandem (2 person) kayaks also fit into this category.

Sea Lion Kayak- Oldy but Goody

Sea kayaks are long (14’+), narrow and fast.  They are designed for “big” water like seas, oceans, and big lakes.  They can handle wind and waves and are designed for paddling long distances.  The main distinction between a recreational kayak and a sea kayak is the number of bulkheads in the kayak.  A sea kayak has two or more while a recreational kayak has one or none.  This is critical for safety reasons, but that’s a topic for another day.

Sit-on-top Kayak

Sit-on-top kayaks are just what they sound like.  You sit on them instead of in them.  These are very popular in warm regions because you can hop off and swim around, then climb back on much easier than a regular kayak.

Day Touring Kayak

  Day Touring or Light Touring – I know I said there were 4 types so what’s this?  This is a new class of hybrid kayaks usually 12’ to 14’ that combine the features of a sea kayak with the stability of a recreational kayak.  These kayaks could be classified as either, but I consider them sea kayaks because they have 2 bulkheads.  These are good multi-purpose kayaks for those who don’t want a true sea kayak.


See you on the water,
Don Urmston
Email directly with any questions: mrurmston@gmail.com

Kayak Basics - Parts of a Kayak

If you want to get a kayak, you need to know some basic terminology:

Parts of a Kayak

Length & width – Just like it sounds (width is at the widest point)
Beam – same as width
Bow – front of the kayak
Stern – rear of the kayak
Fore – Front
Aft – Rear
Hull – entire bottom of the kayak
Bulkheads – interior walls in the kayak that create a sealed, air tight compartment
Hatches – access to these compartments
Cockpit – area where you sit in the kayak
Footpegs – you rest/brace your feet on them
Rudder- blade at the back of the kayak that helps you steer.  You control it with the footpegs.
Skeg- blade that hangs under the kayak (like the fin on a surfboard) that helps keep the kayak straight.
Cockpit Combing – Rim around the cockpit that is used to hold a spray-skirt on.
Rocker – the amount of curvature in the hull.  A boat with a lot of rocker is shaped like a banana
pfd – Personal Flotation Device = life vest.  Not part of the kayak, but you should wear one every time you go paddling.
(for a bigger view of the picture above, click on Parts of a Kayak on the right menu)

See you on the water,
Don Urmston
Email me directly with any questions: mrurmston@gmail.com

Welcome to Kayaknut

Kayaknut – Introduction

My name is Don Urmston, I’m from NY and kayaking is my passion.  I’ve been kayaking for over 16 years and I’ve owned more than 30 different kayaks.  I’m a teacher by trade so I guess it was inevitable that I would end up teaching others about kayaking.  I’m a member of the Adirondack Mountain Club, Mid-Hudson Chapter, and we love to paddle.  I lead kayak trips, teach kayaking to beginners and go out to libraries, colleges and anywhere else I get invited to give presentations about getting started in kayaking.  I started this blog so I could put all my experience in one place and pay it forward to anyone who wants to learn about kayaking.  I hope there will be something for everyone, but my target is really the everyday paddler.  I welcome questions and feedback.  Some of the topics I plan to blog about are:
Kayak basics
Choosing a kayak
Equipment
Kayak Safety
Misadventures I’ve had and what I learned from them
Kayak camping
Trip planning
Kayak Reviews- my favorite kayaks
Trip reports – Places I’ve been
If there is anything you’d like to know about or you can’t wait, give a shout and I’ll see if I can get your topic on sooner.  My email is: Mrurmston@gmail.com


See you on the water,
Don Urmston